Lee Alexander McQueen was known the world over for his voyeuristic and misogynistic collections, criticized even. One thing no one could argue was that his collections weren't just high fashion, they were art. When he died many debated if the fashion house could continue without his extremist designs, then came along Sarah Burton. The lady who shocked us all by being the designer who made the wedding gown of the Duchess of Cambridge that has bought in an estimated £10 million pounds from visitors tickets has yesterday proven that she was exactly the right person to take over at the helm of this iconic label since the tragic death of it's creator.
This season Sarah Burton has taken this eponymous label and made it her own, whilst keeping to the vision that Lee McQueen had for it, which is no mean feat, yet still making it her own and adding a striking feminine twist.
The show featured a lot of strong tailoring with jackets that prove the influence of the likes of Coco Chanel stand with us still to this day, but were given that edge McQueen was known for with cinched in waists and embellished and powerful shoulders. To begin with nude skirts were dip dyed into a fabulous gold that was carried onto the next look where the skirts consisted of some fabulous ruffles. The pink look that came next showed us exposed bras and cut outs that give a sophisticated look that high fashion edge.
We were next shown a fabulous metallic lavender shade on dresses where the ruffles were moved from the hem of the dress up to the waist and along the torso all the while showing of the models gorgeous figures.
The sharp tailoring then moved onto constructed ruffles and chiffon babydoll dresses that you could see the likes of Natalie Portman looking amazing in.
Next we were treated to some longer chiffon gowns that Lee McQueen himself would have struggled to improve. Sarah Burton showed her sense of creativity was synonymous with the late designers by treating us to a look featuring bondage and sexualism that he was known for. She swapped the lace headbands that models wore earlier in the show for full on balaclavas that would make even Lady Gaga proud.
We were then taken to creations that had us reminiscing of that eventvul MTV VMA show were Gaga cried whilst paying tribute to McQueen in the aftermath of his death with overly dramatic statement dresses that the masses would struggle to understand but could be described as nothing other than an impetus.
There were even more ruffles that would make an ostrich jealous and high necklines that bought a hint of the 1600's to the collection.
The collection was Sarah Burton's first since her amazing dress was worn by Kate Middleton for the Royal wedding, and she managed to do what I personally think no other designer out there could of done. She kept the collection close to the creators ideals whilst at the same time making it entirely her own. I've said a lot of the shows this season were amazing, but that has not been more true than it is now.
Lee McQueen dedicated his life to fashion, he evoked new ideas that were shot down by many but not once did he give up on that vision. He bought it home that fashion is not just about clothing, but that it is about art and I think anyone will be hard pushed to find a collection as artistic as this.
