Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Alexander McQueen SS 2012



Lee Alexander McQueen was known the world over for his voyeuristic and misogynistic collections, criticized even.  One thing no one could argue was that his collections weren't just high fashion, they were art. When he died many debated if the fashion house could continue without his extremist designs, then came along Sarah Burton.  The lady who shocked us all by being the designer who made the wedding gown of the Duchess of Cambridge that has bought in an estimated £10 million pounds from visitors tickets has yesterday proven that she was exactly the right person to take over at the helm of this iconic label since the tragic death of it's creator.



This season Sarah Burton has taken this eponymous label and made it her own, whilst keeping to the vision that Lee McQueen had for it, which is no mean feat, yet still making it her own and adding a striking feminine twist.


The show featured a lot of strong tailoring with jackets that prove the influence of the likes of Coco Chanel stand with us still to this day, but were given that edge McQueen was known for with cinched in waists and embellished and powerful shoulders.  To begin with nude skirts were dip dyed into a fabulous gold that was carried onto the next look where the skirts consisted of some fabulous ruffles.  The pink look that came next showed us exposed bras and cut outs that give a sophisticated look that high fashion edge.


We were next shown a fabulous metallic lavender shade on dresses where the ruffles were moved from the hem of the dress up to the waist and along the torso all the while showing of the models gorgeous figures.


The sharp tailoring then moved onto constructed ruffles and chiffon babydoll dresses that you could see the likes of Natalie Portman looking amazing in.


Next we were treated to some longer chiffon gowns that Lee McQueen himself would have struggled to improve.  Sarah Burton showed her sense of creativity was synonymous with the late designers by treating us to a look featuring bondage and sexualism that he was known for.  She swapped the lace headbands that models wore earlier in the show for full on balaclavas that would make even Lady Gaga proud.


We were then taken to creations that had us reminiscing of that eventvul MTV VMA show were Gaga cried whilst paying tribute to McQueen in the aftermath of his death with overly dramatic statement dresses that the masses would struggle to understand but could be described as nothing other than an impetus.


There were even more ruffles that would make an ostrich jealous and high necklines that bought a hint of the 1600's to the collection.


The collection was Sarah Burton's first since her amazing dress was worn by Kate Middleton for the Royal wedding, and she managed to do what I personally think no other designer out there could of done.  She kept the collection close to the creators ideals whilst at the same time making it entirely her own.  I've said a lot of the shows this season were amazing, but that has not been more true than it is now.



Lee McQueen dedicated his life to fashion, he evoked new ideas that were shot down by many but not once did he give up on that vision.  He bought it home that fashion is not just about clothing, but that it is about art and I think anyone will be hard pushed to find a collection as artistic as this.








Paul & Joe SS 2012

As the show immediately before Alexander McQueen, Paul & Joe was never going to be the highlight of Paris Fashion week, and with this collection, it is hardly surprising.  It seems almost as if Sophie Albou learned who she would be showing before and gave up mid collection.

Whilst the garments were perfectly nice, they lacked the flare and originality of the other shows we have seen this last month.  The theme was that of Military meets Safari, with plenty of Khaki's, mustard's and tribal prints.  the stand out piece had to be the extra long khaki trench with military detailing, but still, there was nothing that made it stand out from the hundreds of other designers that have used this theme before them.




Look of the Week: Caggie Dunlop

Made In Chelsea is finally back on our screens and with it comes a whole new array of stunning outfits, from Millie's break up outfit to Louise's lipstick, these girls really know how to look good and no one more so than star of the show Caggie Dunlop.

This week she made her return from New York, where she ran off to at the end of last season, and waltz into the Casino where Francis was holding an event, in a dress so stunning that Spencer's eyes literally popped out of his head.


Twitter went into overdrive with people literally all over the world asking where it was from.  Well being from South West London does have it's benefits as I managed to track it down to a gorgeous little boutique on Kings Road, Austique.  Whilst the dress may cost what us ordinary people would consider or disposable income for the whole month, as you could see from the show the £600 price tag was more than worth it.

Chanel SS 2012


There is little in fashion that Karl Lagerfeld can be bested at, and minimalism is high on that list.  His Spring Summer 2012 show seemed to pay homage to all that is calm and white, with under - the -sea touches, such as giant white shells, one of which had the machine that is Florence Welch singing from them (pun intended).


As always, Lagerfeld gave us a little bit of everything, from fitted pencil skirts & tweed waistcoats to shell - like embelishment & ruffle overload.  The collection was stunning - everything you would expect from a Chanel show and more.  The youthful garments broke down the age barrier that it has struggled against for so long and if possible made the brand as iconic as ever.


We saw the ever famous Chanel Jackets, but there were also bold prints thrown in as well as a rather questionable style of bag.  The models had slick hair styles with pearls carefully placed on their head and spines before hand.




Saturday, 1 October 2011

DW by Kanye West SS 2012


Rap legend Kanye West showed his debut collection at Paris Fashion Week this evening and whilst it was not the most amazing of shows, I still feel he deserves a little credit.

No one can deny the force that is Kanye West, yes after his antics at the MTV VMA's during Taylor Swifts acceptance speech he has earned him a lot of 'haters', but he is still one of the biggest names in the entertainment industry, and has one numerous awards over the years.  People constantly criticize hip hop stars for their contributions to the broken society we have today (not something I agree with FYI) yet when one of them branches out they receive the backlash that Kanye West has so far in the two hours since his show.

Whilst Kanye's, DW by Kanye West (after his late mother), collection would perhaps have been better suited for A/W (it was a little heavy on the leather & fur) it was still one that you could see the star had put a lot of effort into.

There were pieces that were constructed with the same ideals that we have seen throughout shows in the last month such as paneling and Sportswear influences and the colour palette and cut outs were also in keeping with the general theme for next summer.




Whilst critics have slammed Kanye for his collection, they seem to forget that fashion is all about innovation and new ideas.  Whilst it is true what they say about him only being at Paris Fashion Week due to his position in celebrity culture, the same is true for plenty of other designers out there such as Rachel Zoe and Victoria Beckham, the latter being one that has also faced harshed criticism over the years but has since one over the opinions of those who slated her and has won more than a few awards for her contribution to the industry.





A lot of people in high fashion slam the high street for their lack of originality but yet seem to contradict themselves with their opinions of this collection.  We should remeber that Kanye West is not a fashion designer first and foremost, he has used what he knows best to influence this collection.  Catwalk eventually brings fashion to the streets, and Kanye has instead bought the streets to fashion.  Where's the harm in that?