LFW: Burberry Prorsum

Fashion doesn't get much more British than Burberry, apt then, that the theme of the SS14 Burberry Prorsum collection was 'English Rose'.  A much more relaxed offering than normal, the collection began with a range of pencil skirt/shirt combos in pastel shades of pink, lilac, blue and green and in laser cut detail.  The whole mood of the show was, to begin with, calm and understated, with only slight hints of high end fashion visible in the form of the high splits in front of skirt and the obvious need to leave the lining of garments on the atelier floor.  Models wore cashmere sweaters in shades of grey and white before we were introduced to this years equivalent of the hearts - big polka dots.  Let us not forget the iconic trench, this season worn loose and oversized.

All very un-Burberry as compared to the past few seasons, that is until the final segment of the show where the garments came out adorned by sparkly brooches - dresses were held up by one strap of them, skirts were all but made from them and even Cara's rain coat was made entirely unsuitable for its main purpose by them.  Well, they do say save the best till last.

See the gallery on our Facebook page.

LFW: Christopher Kane

 

'If I do flowers, I don't want them to be like everyone else's'  Christopher Kane said backstage at his SS14 collection today entitled 'The anatomy of a flower'.  Instead of floral prints or simple pastel shades Kane instead dress inspiration from the kind of botanical plant drawings one finds in a biology lab, something evident in the petal cut out details on many of his dresses.

Well known for his avante garde choices when designing, this collection, Kane managed to retain originality and, although we saw white, there was no hint of the monochrome palette or 70's theme we have seen over so many catwalks this past two weeks.  There were pleats aplenty and silk trims were added to sheer skirts (my favourite particular look was this ballerina inspired dress - above) as well as basic sweaters teamed with full length ballerina skirts - who would have thought that would be such a winning combination.

View the gallery on our Facebook Page.

LFW: Erdem

 

Erdem, a designer whose name has become synonymous with ladylike frocks and pretty floral prints shook it up at his Spring Summer 2014 show earlier today with a completely monochrome offering. Gliding down the runway to the tune of a grand piano models donned a selection of garments edgier than we have come to expect from the Canadian born designer which, although underwhelming to begin with, soon reminded us exactly what it is we love about the brand.

The collection featured a range of sheath dresses with feather trims, sheer separates, constructed dresses and my personal favourite of a midlength shirt dress finished with a black vest, we were even treated to ladylike biker jackets - who knew there was such a thing!

See the collection on our Facebook page.

LFW: Temperley London

Theme:  Alice Temperley stated backstage that the show was 'a tropical mood in a Mediterranean environment'. 

Palette:50 shades of pink, silky colours accented by touches or leopard print.

Beauty:  Hair was pulled back from the face without making it look too harsh, keeping all focus on the clothes.

Key Look:  It is truly hard to pin down just one look from this collection but no13 was a particular favourite.  Combining pink, applique flowers and a silk trim the dress was something of dreams.

Review: There wasn't actually much tropical or Mediterranean about this show but that didn't stop it from being anything short of amazing.  The show began with a '50 shades of pink' theme of volumous proportions before transitioning into a parade of dresses fit for a princess.  Each dress appeared pure in nature and the key was in the detailing which included chiffon flowers sewn onto dresses and coats alike, ribbons stitched to the waist and even leopard print belts.  I'm not fan of leopard print, I'll go as far to say I think it is one of the tackiest prints going, but something about the way it sits on these garments makes me rethink my whole outlook.  I sincerely look forward to seeing this collection on some of our best and brightest (and hopefully myself).

See the collection on our Facebook page.

LFW: L'Wren Scott

Theme:  The Momoyama period of 16th Century Japan

Palette:  Oriental colours - red, blue, black, white and purple.

Accessories:  Bow waisted belts and oriental umbrellas.

Beauty:  Models donned short black bobs and had pale, clear complexions in keeping with the theme.

Key Look:  Look 4, a full length white dress finished with a red waist belt was the epitome of the whole collection.

Review:  A collection clearly designed with herself in mind, L'Wren Scott's latest offering was nothing short of glamorous.  A cinched waist was the defining part of every look and the palette was perfect for creating the oriental theme she was going for.  Japanese prints were featured on kimonos and pencil skirts and beautiful dresses were finished with obi belts. Each look was as pristine and polished as we have come to expect from Mrs Mick Jagger.

View the collection on our Facebook page.

LFW: Mulberry

Theme:  With a layout consisting of astro turf and columns lain with daisies, Madness' 'Our House' playing throughout the show and Winston Churchills voiceover at the start Mulberry are still proving they are key players in the British fashion industry.

Palette:  Beginning with grey and white, runway soon introduced some of SS14's much loves 70's prints in bright orange.

Accessories: Adding twists to their classic bags we saw the 'Willow' with flower detailing and 'Alexa' in bright orange.  70's style chunky heels were worn in multiple colours, most memorably the orange floral printed heels.

Key Look:  Look 4 was a personal favourite, not only for the cutest accessory known to man but the simplicity of the outfit.  Both the jacket and dress were stunning on their own but together a new dimension was created and a power outfit was worn.

Review:  A bittersweet show for the British brand today as it marks the last collection of creative director Emma Hill, who officially steps down from her role tomorrow, the women who made the brand the worldwide phenomena it has become the past 5 years.  The collection retained many of the brands famous signatures with the co ordination of pieces taking precedence.

Silk pyjama suits were shown in multiple forms, there were cullotes, jacquard jackets, house coats and even a leather boob tube.  Critiques have already dismissed the collection for lacking the usual Mulberry 'must have or die quality', something which I feel is no bad thing (with the exception of the garish orange 70's print which I would rather just ignore).  Whilst it girls may not be clamouring over themselves for this collection, a rest of us might actually get a look in to by a true piece of iconic British fashion.

See the gallery on our Facebook Page.

LFW: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Theme: According to designers Thornton and Bregazzi the show was heavily influenced by Miami and the east coast 'because we've never been there'.

Palette:  As with pretty much every other designer we have seen so far this month there were a lot of bright whites with bright abstract prints.

Beauty:  Straight side swept hair.

Key Look:  Look 3 was my personal favourite, whilst minimal compared to the rest, the cape attached to the dress gave it that extra something.

Review:  Whilst not the most exciting of all collections, it was the simpler pieces that saved this show.  The silk jackets were a complete waste of effort, the kind of trend that high streets will imitate only to find these garments on the sale rails come the seasons end.  The architectural lines of the skirt were reminiscent of some kind of Tinkerbell cuts and the pastel colours only added to the Neverland fairy vibe.  The monochrome pieces, whilst overdone this season, were Preens saving grace.  All wearable and simply yet elegant they are sure to be a hit with the timeless dresser and those who favour brands such as Calvin Klein.

See the key looks on our Facebook Page.

LFW: PPQ

Theme:  Seemingly another designer who has opted for a 70's theme with certain Spanish influences.

Palette:  Primarily purple and black with accents of red, green and yellow.

Accessories:  Veils, bags with bouquets sprouting from them and strapped sandals.

Beauty:  70's inspired beehives at the crown beginning with centre partings.

Key Look:  Look 5 - the flamenco skirt in a bright floral print perfectly accentuated the tight, black bodice.

Review:  Any show consisting of flamenco skirts and 70's style button down dresses was going to be a risk, in the case of PPQ it was one that most definitely paid off.  An array of totally different looks were used, from the tartan Vivienne Westwood-esque dresses complete with tulle underskirts to the emerald green halter neck maxi dress, this collection was anything but predictable.  A collection of highly versatile and wearable collections that weren't designed simply for high class events.  The polka dot two piece was on another level yet somehow it still worked.  One of the most durable collections we have seen so far with looks that are achievable for the everyday women.

See the full gallery on our Facebook page.

LFW: Felder Felder

 

Theme: Underwater dream - texture is integral to the show.  'We love manipulating fabrics' - Daniela and Annette Felder stated backstage.

Palette:  Aquatic, an array of blues, pearly pinks and dark seaweed green.

Accessories:  Satin shoes, silver pointed courts and even a metallic silver belt added to the underwater theme.

Beauty:  Models sported wet look hair with coral dip dye and shimmering cheek bones.

Key Look:  All were amazing in their own way but our fave was the above pearly pink number for its sheer femininity and all around gorgeousness.

Review:  The whole show from start to finish was, quite simply put, stunning.  The metallic accessories perfectly accentuated the muted palette chosen and the overall theme was excellently executed down to every minute detail.  The blue prints, which at first glance appeared to be reptilian soon resembled the image of the bottom of a pool from a birdseye view with the sun reflecting off the water.  Even the PVC inserts looked well placed (no easy feat considering, well it was PVC).

See the gallery on our Facebook page.

Menswear Roundup @ LFW SS 2012

Whilst the four fashion weeks are what determine the trends us females will all be wearing the following season, it isn't so easy for men.  Designers show their collections in Februrary and September, the high street imitates, and we start wearing. Whilst most of us cant afford designer prices, we still get a rough idea of what will be in trend for the coming seasons, and can begin to prepare. Men have no fashion week, and much fewer magazines, therefore are at a slight disadvantage.

The British Fashion Council have changed this, and the final day of LFW was devoted to a day of menswear shows.  There were around 20 in all, and all finished before Milan kicked off.  My favourite were:

Oliver Spencer

Having launched his own label in 2002, Oliver Spencer's designs have always had that feel of traditional British tailoring.  His clothes are increasingly popular with male celebrities such as Brad Pitt and Jason Statham (he came to public attention after being hired by Guy Ritchie as costume designer for the film Snatch).  This year he went that step further and introduced, arguably, one of his most fashion forward collections yet.

His collection was inspired by 'French Mods' according to his show notes and featured some beautiful pieces.  He introduced a lot of colours, from crimson to electric blue, even some terracotta buttons to finish.  He cut the ends off of trousers and the sleeves off of jackets and used a lot of layering to bring the right texture to his looks.  

With his first footwear store having opened in London this year, a key focus was made of the shoes his models wore, which featured everything from desert boots to loafers.

 

Topman Design

You would think that with these looks being for Spring/Summer 2012 that the mens collections with significantly feature sportswear, you know with the Olympics coming, but that was not the case and the Topman Design show couldn't have been further apart from the Sportswear look if it tried.

No instead it was all about the 1970's with plaid shirts, pyjama looking trousers and shirts and shoes with largely exaggerated tassels and shorts that I'm sure even Kitty from The Xfactor would be embarrassed to look at, seriously, think Bruce Jenner on the track - actually that's the slight sportswear influence I guess...

 

 

Aquascutum

Finally my favourite of the menswear.  Now I'm not one of those girls who dreams of her wedding day, I'm one of those people who just can't see herself settling down forever in the way that has been dictated to us by traditional values.  If I was to change my mind and want to get married, it would be for a man who dressed like this.

Considering the brand formed with the vision to create a stylish protection from the rain, they've not half done well.  This year focused on immaculate tailoring in neutral colours, with cool blues, beiges and blacks.  My favourite piece had to be the trench - a piece not men could pull off, but those who do, do so fabulously, Chuck Bass anyone??

David Koma SS 2012

David Koma - the designer bought to the awareness of the public due to the likes of Cheryl Cole and Beyonce wearing his sculptural dresses, this year showed his debut solo collection, which proved to be one of the most innovative yet.

A previous winner of the Topshop NewGen sponsorship, he is one of those designers who clearly loves the female form ensuring that it is shown off in all of it's glory.  This collection was inspired by tribal body markings and the art of Kim Joong.

Whilst the show started off with pieces that are more wearable to us mere fashion mortals, with sheer fabrics, cut out and nipped in waists, his trademark was still these are the show progressed with leather fringing and metal establishment.

No detail was to small for the Georgian designer, with models having nails, eye make up and even hair parting to match the collection.  Colours were mainly white and black, but with accents of pink, yellow and turquoise.

The penultimate show of LFW was never going to be an easy slot to fill, but David Koma was definitely the right decision.

 
 

Meadham Kirchhoff SS 2012

Meadham Kirchhoff had us all regressing back to our childhood today with their 'a wolf in sheeps clothing' pantomime show that had even Anna Wintour cracking a smile (probs the first time ever, right?).  It was a pantomime that began with 14 dancers walking onto the stage, putting puff powder onto their faces before vigorously dancing the can can whilst the models came out and walked around them wearing cutsey clothing that consisted of knitwear over buttoned up checked shirts, apron dresses, exaggerated pom pom skirts made of ostrich feathers, lace brocade dresses, colour pop tights and bonkers platforms.

The runway had arches of bright, pastel coloured balloons and gold drapes, it looked like some kind of 80's American prom and the models had there faces coloured with funky eyebrows and doll like red cheeks.  The show ended with little ballerinas tip toeing around a cake.  Has there been a more fun show, ever?

 

 

Erdem SS 2012

 Erdem showed his eponymous label yesterday in the ballroom of the Savoy Hotel and in contrast to the majority of those heavy, in your face collections we saw in New York last week, his was a stunning and ethereal collection that was the exact reason the Turkish - Candian designer is most fashionistas go to guy when they want something playful and romantic.

His models wore close fitting floral dresses with delicate touches such as lace insert sleeves, floral matching gloves and light pleats.  There were a lot of blues with some yellow and red making it into the show, although the colours were not at all overpowering.

A special mention must go to that stunning, one of a kind trench and the hotpants.  The hotpants were slightly more sexy look than the zealous Erdem usually goes for, but the shorts were still totally fabulous and i can see many a girl rocking them next season with platform boots and white shirts.  Th trench coat was a gentle satin fabric and worked in the same floral prints as some of the dress.  It is one of those pieces you know will be iconic and everyone will wish they had one.